The Best Runway Music from Paris Spring/Summer 2025
Prêt-à-Porter gave us Prêt-à-écouter
By Blu Clara Rapps-O’Dea Valey
After surviving the chaos of the outside world, you slowly make your way inside. Following the people in front of you, you enter the old luxurious building. Not much of the decor is visible. The lights are dim which makes you stumble to your seat. Everyone sits impatiently, waiting for the show to start. Waiting for the designer to guide you into the next trend. Suddenly, the room turns pitch black. You cannot see anyone anymore, but you can hear them. Hear them breathing. Hear their chewing. Hear their whispering. The show is about to start…
LIGHTS, MUSIC, CLOTHES
In order to tell the stories they have in mind, designers use a beautiful combination of elements. From the location of the show to the cast, and of course, the accompanying soundtrack. The background music, more often than not, is used to mark the beginning of a show. Once beat drops, the tempo is set in motion allowing the models to march out on cue.
In the rare moments where music is no longer used as an afterthought and is given the space to become one of the main characters of the show, it’s wielding power transforms the show to a whole other level. With every passing season, it becomes all the more clear which maisons take that extra time and care in ensuring that their tunes of choices are played in perfect tandem with the mood of their designs. This has proven to be true for the recent spring/summer 2025 Paris season with the best of the lot having us groove to the beat long after the shows were over.
Dior (September 24th): Amazones in Athleisure by Maria Grazia Chuiri
Maria Grazia Chuiri decided that ‘Brat Summer’ was not over yet as she set her new collection to the beat of Charli XCX and Billie Eilish’s Guess. She intertwined the cheeky lyricism of the duo with FKA Twigs’ Eusexua , an emotional introspection, all while artist SAGG Napoli performed with archery on the runway.
Saint Laurent (September 24th): Power dressing by Anthony Vaccarello
Back where he made his debut at Saint Laurent, in Rue de Bellechasse, Anthony Vaccarello reinvented the art of “power dressing”. Confidence and sensuality were entwined in an intimate dance. The music was their guide as models, most notably Bella Hadid, walked to the reinterpretation of Les Paradis Perdue by SebastiAn (original song by Christophe and Charlotte Gainsbourg).
Rabanne (September 25th): “Radicality is relative” by Julien Dossena
In his latest collection, Julien Dossena blends futuristic elements and luxurious details. The sounds of Micheal Mayer’s and Miss Kittin’s Voyage Intérieur pay homage to the spirit of the 1980s Parisian hip-hop scene which complement the avant-garde and futuristic aesthetic of the collection.
Chloé (September 26th): “Freedom Collection” by Chemena Kamali
Held at the Tennis Club de Paris, the new collection melded 1970s with vacation inspiration and femininity with nature. The music by Konstantin Wehrum and Deck D’Arcy from Phoenix mirrored this vibe as they incorporated tracks (a mix of classic rock and folk music) that evoked the free-spirited youth culture of the 1970s.
Casablanca (September 26th): “An unknown Los Angeles” by Charaf Tajer
Founder and creative director of Casablanca, Charaf Tajer, presented a flamboyant collection inspired by Mexican-American “Lowrider” culture. The eclectic vintage cars scattered on the runway mixed with the energetic soundtrack ranging from Can’t Get Enough by Social Lovers to Closer by Nine Inch Nails, finishing with Take California by Propellerheads, mirrored the playful and colourful aesthetics of the collection.
Enfants Riches Déprimés (September 29th): “Macabre” by Henry Levy
In this collection, Henry Levy explored forced assimilation, rejection and silent oppression. He used a blend of tracks to complement the themes of melancholy and luxury. Some notable songs heard: Party Girl by Michelle Gurevich opened the show, Ocean by Lush was heard in the middle and The Rip by Portishead closed it.The mood and atmospheric tracks, such as Elephant Woman by Blonde Redhead, alongside the upbeat selections, such as Du Scrollts by Lebanon Hanover, created a dynamic auditory experience.
Isabel Marant (September 29th): “The Amazon meets the artisanal spirit” by Isabel Marant
The collection showcased a blend between laid-back and bohemian flair with an emphasis on retro influences. The tropical theme of the collection was enhanced by the song selection. Only two songs were picked, the first one being Racatin by Populous and the second being, Flores No Mar by Populous and Emmanuelle.
Celine (September 30th): “Un été Français” by Hedi Slimane
Inspired by a French summer in the 1960s, this collection revisited « the golden age of Celine » by celebrating the French feminine aesthetic with a rebellious edge. Traditional fashion pieces such as chic tweed jackets and vintage-inspired floral dresses were highlighted on the runway , blending timeless elegance with a touch of modernity. To further set the tone, Slimane chose Femme Fatale, written by Lou Reed and performed by Nico and the Velvet Underground, as the leading soundtrack, perfectly completing the show’s atmosphere.
Balenciaga (September 30th): “Tribute to fashion with a distinct point of view” by Demna Gvasalia
Served on a platter on the longest dining table witnessed in a while, the collection started off on a seductive note with a series of lingerie looks to the alluring tune of Why Don’t You Do Right sung by Jessica Rabbit (Amy Irving), from the film Who Framed Roger Rabbit (1988). Models appeared increasingly clothed as the song changed to a remix of Gimme More by Britney Spears.
Chanel (October 1st): “One ode à la liberté” by the Chanel Studios
After five long years, Chanel made a dramatic return « back home » to Le Grand Palais, which has hosted Chanel shows for the past nineteen years. The collection was “a tribute to women who freed themselves from the cumbersome gaze of society, just like Gabrielle Chanel » as the brand explained. It featured a mix of pastel and vivid colours, vibrancy was reflected in the music choices of the show. Barry White’s I’m Gonna Love You Just A Little More, Baby (Alternative Version) opened the show, followed by Jamie XX and The Avalanches’s All You Children and Elkka's Right Here. However, it was actress and singer Riley Keough’s live performance of Prince’s iconic When Doves Cry that stole the show. Swinging above the runway in a cage, her performance symbolised women’s liberation to complement the theme of the collection.