Food, Fashion, and Influencers in Paris

written by Fiona Fortuanto

This is the era of the influencer, so these influencers can help shed light not only on what they’ve been wearing, but where to go in Paris, and more specifically, where to eat—and take pictures of what you’re eating. The emergence of distinctly trendy, often non-French food destinations spike in popularity during fashion week as a direct result of these influencers and the influencer culture that has penetrated the workings of the restaurant world. Whether it is Kim Kardashian frequenting her favorite burger restaurant or the Californian inspired health cafe Wild and the Moon with lines out the door for their health juices and avocado toast, it is clear that a correlation exists between influencers/celebrities and popular food destinations. 

The connection between food and fashion week has been amplified on the basis of the desirable nature of being able to share the same space as celebrities. Restaurants like Café de Flore have been notable for decades with former diners being of the likes of Oscar Wilde, Albert Camus and even Pablo Picasso. Their star-studded history and Pinterest-esqe setting hide the reality of overwhelmingly long lines of tourists and overpriced options which can be found nearly half-priced elsewhere.  Even with their reputation for having some of the best french onion soup in the city, the modern draw is no longer these notables of the past or soup alone, the atmosphere is what is being sold.

Similarly, you can easily find articles on the internet with titles like “The Most Instagrammable Restaurants in Paris”. The Instagrammable destinations are not always jaw droppingly opulent, but are sometimes niche hole-in-the-wall restaurants, vetted by A-list celebrities. Ferdi is one such restaurant. 

Named after the son of the Alicia and Jacques Fontanier who founded the restaurant in 2004, the restaurant is small and decorated with toys said to have been similar to the ones that their son used to play with. Menu highlights include corn on the cob, chili con carne, empanadas and “naughty french fries (served with homemade chili cheddar sauce)”. A place to get a burger and fries might seem to be relatively un-glamourous, but it blew up in popularity in 2017 as seen in one of Ferdi’s Instagram photos, showing Gigi and Bella Hadid, along with Kendall Jenner and Joan Smalls. Since then, it has been frequented by more celebrities including Penelope Cruz and Owen Wilson, as well as being featured in lifestyle blogs and publications including Gwyneth Paltrow’s website Goop as being "particularly big with a fashion crowd". An article from Business Insider reviewed some of the iconic dishes from Ferdi’s, and found the atmosphere charming with 12 euro cocktails, and a delicious (but 16 euro) burger. While the Ferdi burger is definitely more expensive than your typical burger would be, the Business Insider review found it justified due to its amazing flavor and presentation. Even the menu vouches for its popularity, with a disclaimer on their burger supply since they run out so quickly.  

Influencer culture in the age of social media has radically changed the transmission of culture and consumerism, but the success of these restaurants should not be credited only to the A-listers who have dined there. Regardless though, these restaurants do receive a major spotlight. Repeatedly booming in popularity when Paris again serves as the hub for the fashionable stars to eat and drink, serves as an endorsement for their establishments, whether unintentional or through the use of paid influencers. While these locations may seem out of place in Paris, their popularity is in part due to the massive influx of tourists to Paris every year and every fashion week. These individuals are… not French, therefore it is not surprising that non-French establishments can keep a footing in the restaurant industry by serving predominantly foreign clientele. The Instagrammability of these establishments maintains the steady flow of non-French audiences and influencer clientele, like a vital heart beat for a specific subculture of the restaurant industry, regardless of the culture of the restaurant’s geographic location.